America loves Malbec. Originally from France, this black-skinned grape became synonymous with Argentina, where ripe, juicy bottlings from Mendoza turned it into a household name. As its popularity grew, winemakers increased plantings around the globe.
Today, consumers can explore new sites in California and Washington, or discover why the high altitudes of Argentina are the reason that Malbec thrive. Whether meaty and tannic or floral and fresh, there’s a Malbec for everyone. Malbec shows a range of flavors and textures, depending on its origin, climate, and how it’s aged. Bottlings range from meaty and tannic to floral and fresh. A side-by-side analysis is the best way to recognize such characteristics.
As you taste, search for aromas and flavors, but also think about texture. Does the Malbec’s acidity feel sharp? Do the tannins feel rustic or velvety? Organize your tasting by two key categories: New World Argentina versus New World U.S.; and unoaked versus oaked. Of course, you’ll need to pick up a few bottles, so we’ve included tips on what to seek out.
New World Argentina vs. New World U.S.
Malbec emigrated from France to Argentina, which quickly became a leader in Malbec production, its climate a natural fit for the variety. Mendoza, San Juan and Salta are the three main growing regions, though Mendoza’s wines represent the style most known.
Dry, with plenty of sunshine, Mendoza’s climate allows Malbec to blossom into a spicy, lush, velvety wine. Easy to love, especially due to its soft, ripe tannins, Malbec is accessible and can be enjoyed young. It brims with a mix of red and dark fruit, with notes of chocolate and warm spice. Argentine Malbec also offers a lot of wine for the dollar.
Deeper into Mendoza, where Malbec grows on higher-elevation sites like those in the Uco Valley, the grape captures more acidity, aromatic intensity with violet notes, and a jewel-toned, purple hue. Firmer tannins help these wines age.
Given the success of Malbec in South America, many U.S. producers have embraced the variety.
New World Argentina vs. New World U.S. Malbec Flights
Wine 1: Malbec from Mendoza is commonplace on the market. Seek out examples whose labels list the Uco Valley as the subregion, to explore high-elevation Malbec.
Wine 2: Look for Californian Malbec from Sonoma Country, or one of the many AVAs within the region, like Alexander Valley, Rockpile or Dry Creek Valley.
American Malbec shares some characteristics with Argentina, especially in California and Washington, where vineyard climates are similar. However, Argentina’s vines are older and planted on their own rootstock at higher elevations typically, factors that can contribute to differences in taste and structure.
California, followed by Washington State, led the U.S. in Malbec production and the effort to achieve a terroir-driven style. California wines are easier to find because Malbec is plentiful there, grown from Sonoma down to Santa Barbara. California Malbec often shows dark fruit and stewed plums alongside sweet spices.
Washington is a rising star with nuanced, beautiful Malbecs. The only troubles are limited production and increased demand. When you find one, expect both sweet and savory spice woven through flavors of blueberry, blackberry and plum.
Unoaked vs. Oaked
From the United States in North Americe to Argentina in South America, Malbec expresses the terroir of its site and climate. However, the winemaker’s hand shapes its final taste. The vessel in which they ferment and mature plays a part in that.
Before the advent of stainless steel, winemakers kept their wines in oak, clay or cement.
The French crafted barrels, or staved containers, with wood from the forests of Limousin and Vosges. Hence, the phrase “aged in French oak,” which many winemakers say with pride. However, the arrival of temperature-controlled steel tanks in the 1950s changed winemaking.
Unoaked vs. Oaked Malbec Flights
Wine 1: Argentine producers make unoaked versions of Malbec that see time in stainless steel and/or cement vats.
Wine 2: Search for an Argentine or U.S. produced Malbec—most will list the oak usage on the back label.
Stainless steel preserves primary fruit flavors and aromas. It also prevents oxidation, due to its impermeability. Malbec aged in stainless steel will be fruit-forward and clean with modest tannin. In short, it’s meant for joyous consumption in its youth.
Concrete and clay are a happy medium between stainless steel and oak. Both offer porosity for micro-oxygenation, clay more than concrete. Neither imparts flavor. The result is a clean wine with softened texture from the evolution of tannin without notes of oak.
Oak barrels, on the other hand, do several things. They impart flavors like baking spice (nutmeg, clove and vanilla), all dependent on the age of the barrel and the toast level of its wood.
Barrels can also change the structure of a red wine. They increase ageability through wood tannin, and soften other astringent tannins through contact with oxygen.
Barrels do not control temperature, which provides a suitable environment for malolactic fermentation.
Thus, flavor, structure, and price will be the key differences between unoaked and oaked Malbec wines.
