You find yourself in the rum section at your local liquor store. It’s taken a while to get here, as you’ve been stuck on whiskeys for years, but your wallet needs relief from the pounding of those hard to find, allocated brands. You might enjoy the occasional rum cocktail like a Mojito or Mai Tai, and you know enough to understand that the spirit isn’t defined by drunken pirates and regrettable decisions.
What’s an exciting moment quickly becomes a confusing one as you peruse bottles labeled “rum” and “rhum.” You might recall the time your whiskey aficionado friend lectured you for five minutes on origin and production rules because you spelled Canadian whisky with an “e.” Does the same thing apply here?
Rum encompasses a range of global spirits produced from sugar cane byproducts including molasses, while rhum or rhum agricole (a French term) is uniquely distilled from fresh-pressed sugar cane juice, often in French Caribbean territories. But beyond this key difference, nuances abound. Understanding why rhum differs from rum will leave you with a fuller appreciation of the category—and may also inspire you to make a wider variety of cocktails at home.
Here’s everything to know about rum vs. rhum.
RUM VS. RHUM FAST FACTS
• Most rum is distilled from fermented sugar cane molasses.
• Rhum (also called rhum agricole) is a type of rum, distilled from fresh-pressed sugar cane juice.
• Rum might present a sweeter profile, while rhum is often described as funky, earthy, or vegetal.
• Some regional rhum agricoles have controlled appellations, but rhum agricole itself is not regulated, and labels can vary. Many consider rhum agricole to only include cane juice rum that comes from French Caribbean territories including Martinique and Guadeloupe.
How Are Rum and Rhum Made?
Sugar cane is the backbone of all rum production, but the stalks themselves don’t necessarily provide the foundational ingredient for all rums.
Rum is most often distilled from molasses, a sweet, viscous liquid that’s a residual byproduct of refining sugar cane and can only be produced through the repeated boiling of sugar cane juice. Rhum, on the other hand, is distilled from fresh-pressed sugar cane juice, straight from the stalk. In theory, it’s as organic as it gets. Distillers may employ manipulations that alter the character of both base distillates, like aging in charred oak barrels to produce dark rum or adding infusions to create a flavored rhum agricole.
“We are all rum. Once one gets in the category, they may start exploring and land on a product and style that suits them right at that moment, whether that product comes from cane juice or molasses.” –Master Distiller of rum
The use of molasses or sugar cane juice naturally dictates the flavor profile of the two styles, neither of which is inherently superior. Even if you have a clear-cut favorite, it’s a wise move to have examples of both production methods on your home bar.
“I personally think the rums from molasses are more versatile, but I also think that you’re missing out if you don’t have an agricole in your liquor cabinet,” says this master rum distiller. “We are all rum. Once one gets in the category, they may start exploring and land on a product and style that suits them right at that moment, whether that product comes from cane juice or molasses.”
Where Are Rum and Rhum Made?
Federal regulations define rum as a spirit that is “distilled from the fermented juice of sugar cane, sugar cane syrup, sugar cane molasses, or other sugar-cane byproducts.” However, the spirit can be made around the world and encompasses a wide array of styles, like funky Jamaican bottlings or the lighter rums of Puerto Rico and Cuba.
Though rhum is generally defined as a sugar cane juice distillate, not all rhums are labeled rhum or rhum agricole, for reasons that date to the spirit’s origins.
Rhum agricole originated in the 19th century from the French-speaking islands of the West Indies. (“Agricole” is the French word for “agriculture.”) These Francophone islands are still the epicenter of rhum production, and Martinique, the most prominent producer, furthers its distinction through its labeling. In 1996, the territory gained status as an Appellation d’Origine Controlée (AOC), a French designation signifying that a beverage such as wine or cognac meets specific geographic and production standards.
“I consider rhum agricole to be a rum that’s produced from fresh cane sugar and distilled in Martinique or a French territory like Guadeloupe,” says Manuel Porro, bartender and manager at La Factoría in San Juan, Puerto Rico. “You can make a rhum agricole-style rum, but if you’re not tied to France, you’re making just that—a rum made in the rhum agricole style. You’re not making rhum agricole. It’s an important distinction to make because there is pride of origin involved.”
For the consumer, this means some sleuthing may be involved to determine if an unknown bottle marked “rum” is truly of the molasses-based variety. Some bottles provide easy clues. One brand promotes its practice of distilling rum from freshly pressed sugar cane on the front of its bottle, while other brands will highlight their distilling process or mention the use of molasses or sugar cane juice on their back label.
How Do Rum and Rhum Taste Different?
Rum and rhum can carry significantly different flavor profiles. Rum may present as sweet, with flavors of banana, gingerbread, vanilla, and cocoa indulging the palate. Rhum, meanwhile, delivers a punchy range of earthy, herbaceous, and vegetal notes that are perhaps best described as “funk.” Order a dram of rhum instead of rum, and you’ll notice the difference immediately. For bartenders, explaining the differences to guests is important, even if it’s not always an easy task to accomplish.
One can compare the difference between rum and rhum agricole to the difference between vodka and gin. Vodka is easy and less in your face, whereas gins can have all these floral, earthy notes. In that sense, rhum agricole can be considered the gin of the rum family.
Using Rum and Rhum in Cocktails
When using rum or rhum in a cocktail, it’s important to keep in mind that these spirits aren’t interchangeable. An ingredient or modifier that harmonizes with rum’s sweetness may lean into rhum agricole’s funk a little too much.
A skilled bartender will treat the two styles as their own categories. Though the most famous rhum agricole cocktail remains the Ti’ Punch, the spirit’s vegetal, floral, and earthy notes tend to capture the imagination of those behind the stick.
“What makes rhum agricole so fun to use in a cocktail is that it can taste like different spirits, even though it’s rum,” says Porro. “It’s not exactly equal to the spirit, but it’s similar enough in a cocktail, and it ends up being delicious.”
This chameleon-like quality gives bartenders ample opportunity to play. Some may change up a classic gin cocktail like a Corpse Reviver No. 2 or a Last Word by using rhum agricole in place of gin. Others may use it in lieu of an agave spirit, building a new drink with ingredients that pair well with a tequila or mezcal. Another popular move is to use a split base of rhum and rum to create a new tropical concoction or a different take on a classic, like the Mai Tai.
Making these drinks can be fun for bartenders who are looking to play around with new ingredient combinations. Getting folks to try them—or any rum drink, for that matter—is a different story.
But with some guidance, drinkers can make the gradual transition from rum’s sweetness to appreciating rhum’s funky flavors. It’s a three-step process - Step 1 is to get them familiar with basic rum drinks with a little citrus like pineapple or lemon. Step 2 is to introduce them to a few classics. Step 3 is to walk customers through drinking rum neat. This is the step to introduce them to rhum agricole.
Once you fully grasp the differences between rum and rhum, you may develop a preference between distillates made from molasses and sugar cane juice. Rhum agricole may act as a gateway to other vegetal, earthy spirits produced from sugar cane, like cachaça from Brazil or clairin from Haiti. Whatever path you choose, you’ll traverse it as a better-informed drinker with the knowledge to comfortably navigate the rum aisle.
