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The Basics

Although it’s often referred to as a rice wine, saké is actually brewed, and its production process is more similar to beer than wine. Fundamentally, saké consists of four ingredients: rice, water, yeast and koji (a mold that produces enzymes to trigger fermentation). To identify styles, it’s helpful to know some terms:

 

Junmai: Pure rice saké made with just rice, water, yeast and koji. Saké that’s not labeled junmai has a small amount of distilled alcohol added to the mash during fermentation.

 

Seimaibuai: Saké is classified by its rice milling rate, or seimaibuai, the percentage of the rice grain remaining after milling and polishing. Typically, the more the rice is milled, the more fruity and floral it becomes. The less the rice is milled, the more earthy and robust the saké is.

 

Honjozo: The most basic category of premium saké, with a milling rate of 70 percent or less. Always non-junmai, it’s typically refreshing and uncomplicated.

 

Ginjo: Premium saké with a milling rate of 60 percent or less. Can be junmai or ­non-junmai.

 

Daiginjo: The most premium saké classification, with a milling rate of 50 percent or less. Can be junmai or non-junmai.

 

 

Pairings: Beyond Sushi

 

Because it’s made out of rice, saké has lower acidity than wine and no tannins, which gives it food-pairing superpowers.

 

Saké can harmonize or tease out subtle characteristics of sweetness, fruitiness or minerality in food. Cheese, pasta, mild chicken and fish are ­no-brainers with almost any style.

 

Pair a delicate, fruity ginjo or daiginjo with foods that have subtle sweetness, fruit or floral elements. Good matches are a green salad, chicken or fish with a citrusy vinaigrette, delicate cheeses or even chocolate. Junmai Ginjo brings out fruity notes in dark chocolate. In return, chocolate imparts a creamy texture to the saké.

 

Saké can harmonize or tease out subtle characteristics of sweetness, fruitiness or minerality in food.

 

Pair a savory or mineral-intense junmai with briny seafood dishes like oysters, or funkier kimoto or ­yamahai with robustly flavored beef, fowl or fish dishes. Recommend pairing with New England clam chowder. The saké enhances sweet, smoky bacon flavors as well as the brininess of clams. The silkiness of saké bolsters the luxurious texture of chowder.