Tequila tends to get a lot of attention in May, when Cinco de Mayo encourages Margarita-fueled revelry. Although blanco tequila is the bottle most often reached for to mix drinks, a growing number of agave connoisseurs are pouring añejo tequila instead.
In order to be called añejo,the agave-based spirit needs to be aged for longer than a year. That said, most producers go the extra mile, often aging from 18 months to as long as three years.
And don’t forget extra añejo tequilas, the most rare and (usually) expensive bottlings, aged for longer than three years. This is a relatively new category, established in 2006 by the Consejo Regulador del Tequila—the Mexican agency that regulates tequila production. All that barrel time under the watchful eyes of maestros tequilieros yields extraordinarily complex, deeply flavored tequilas that often rival fine Cognacs and whiskies.
These “sipping tequilas” are well worth seeking out. At the lighter end of the scale, they layer delicate notes of wildflowers, tropical fruit, and jalapeño, with honey and vanilla. Meanwhile, longer-aged versions often show robust caramel and spice, often with surprising touches of chocolate, espresso, or even hints of dried fruit or smoke.
Although añejo tequila is sometimes considered too precious to mix, a growing number of bartenders are using it in cocktails, often in drinks where you might expect to see whiskey instead.
These expressive añejos are delicious enough to encourage a trip to Mexico—or at least a trip to the nearest tequila bar to try more.
