While vodka is a neutral spirit, that does not mean it is completely devoid of character. There’s a big difference between vodkas, if you taste them.
The Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) A new federal statute supported this perspective when on May 4, 2020, they announced changes to labeling and advertising regulations for wine, distilled spirits and malt beverages. Among these was an update to the Standard of Identity for Vodka, which dropped language that defined vodka as “without distinctive character, aroma, taste or color.” Prior to that change, the TTB’s standards of identity read, “'Vodka’ is neutral spirits so distilled, or so treated after distillation with charcoal or other materials, as to be without distinctive character, aroma, taste, or color.” It was short and a bit ambiguous.
The new definition was both more specific but also more encompassing. “'Vodka’ is neutral spirits which may be treated with up to two grams per liter of sugar and up to one gram per liter of citric acid,” the revision begins. “Products to be labeled as vodka may not be aged or stored in wood barrels at any time except when stored in paraffin-lined wood barrels and labeled as bottled in bond... Vodka treated and filtered with not less than one ounce of activated carbon or activated charcoal per 100 wine gallons of spirits may be labeled as ‘charcoal filtered.’”
Despite the change in the definition for vodka, it was still defined as a “neutral spirit” that must be “produced from any material at or above 190 proof”—meaning brands are still starting with essentially pure alcohol. Instead, the change to vodka’s identity only confirmed what vodka snobs already knew: Vodka may not be the most diverse booze on your shelf, but different bottles can and should be allowed to be, well, different.
The agency now requires that vodka is distinguished and defined by its specific production standards: “Vodka may not be labeled as aged, and unlike other neutral spirits, it may contain limited amounts of sugar and citric acid.” In addition to flavors that can now be added, a corn-based vodka will have sweetness to it. It’s just inherent. Wheat-based vodka is going to be a little drier. Potato has a wonderful soft mouthfeel.
Consumers are happily embracing the differences available in vodka. After all, if all vodka tasted the same, there would be no reason for a consumer to choose one over the other, except for price.
