Demand for Japanese whisky has soared in recent years, which is making many bottlings of this nuanced, complex spirit ridiculously hard to find. It’s turned even generous-minded bartenders into hoarders.
“We have quite a backlist of the Japanese whiskies, including some of the rare and old ones,” said the owner of a relatively new whiskey bar on New York City’s Lower East Side, who wished to remain anonymous. “But we don’t put them up on the shelf where everyone can see. You have to ask for them.”
He lowered his voice. “Don’t tell everyone. If we run out, we might not get more bottles.” Yet, it’s also a wonderful time to discover Japanese whisky. Sure, single malts with specific age statements have become hard to get, but they haven’t vanished altogether. Meanwhile, the “Big Two" are rolling out new products, and a growing number of small, up-and-coming distillers are finding acclaim.
“Japanese whisky has taken a Scottish blueprint and quite deliberately tweaked it to suit a Japanese palate. It just happens that those tweaks have resulted in a range of whiskies that appeal equally to Western palates.” —Dominic Roskrow. Put it all together, and U.S. consumers have access to more of these uncommon spirits than they’ve ever had before.
“Japanese whisky is remarkable and unique and deserves all of its buzz,” says a general manager (and self-declared “head Japanese-booze nerd”) in Chicago. This new batch of distillers, he says, “have an attention to detail. They search for balance and quality, and those attributes shine through.”
Japanese whiskies represent remarkable range. They span from whisper-light to rich, caramel-forward spirits that resemble Bourbon, and even peated variations that will please fans of smoky Scotches.
History
If you’re a fan of Scotch whiskies, odds are you’ll enjoy those from Japan, too. The story of Japanese whisky begins with Scotch. According to author Dominic Roskrow’s book, Whisky Japan (Kodansha USA, 2016), Japanese whisky’s genesis can be traced to 1918. That’s when Masataka Taketsuru traveled to Scotland to learn how to distill “proper” single-malt whisky. In 1923, Shinjiro Torii built the country’s first distillery, Yamazaki, and hired Taketsuru.
The two later split. Torii built what would become on of Japan's top two brands. Taketsuru founded the other top brand on the remote northern island of Hokkaido.
With Scotland’s signature whisky serving as inspiration, it’s no coincidence that Japan spells “whisky” as the Scottish do. Nor is it happenstance that many Japanese whiskies are made with barley and smoked with peat, both of which are generally imported from Scotland. A small distillery in Japan is experimenting with local sources.
Yet, Japan’s whisky producers have evolved the spirit to suit the country’s tastes. Local yeast and water help give the whiskies their unique nuances. Another key differentiator: Many whiskies are matured in barrels made from Japan’s mizunara oak, a particularly fine-grained wood that creates a silky texture and imparts delicate fruit and spice notes.
“Japanese whisky has taken a Scottish blueprint and quite deliberately tweaked it to suit a Japanese palate,” says Roskrow. “It just happens that those tweaks have resulted in a range of whiskies that appeal equally to Western palates.”
Scarcity
Until recently, U.S. drinkers have had access to only a limited number of Japanese whiskies, those brands imported by the Big Two. Compared to Scotch and Bourbon, Japanese whisky didn’t receive much attention.
One reason for the scarcity is that Japan’s extended recession in the 1990s caused many of its distilleries to close. Even the "Big Two" scaled back production levels. Luxury was one of the first things to go out the window. Tragically, whisky affeciandaos saw treasured Japanese whisky producers shutter.
Today, spirits lovers are rediscovering Japanese whisky. Consumers in the U.S. and elsewhere have embraced a wide range of world whiskies, and importers have obliged by bringing more of Japan’s bottlings to the Western world. These whiskies began to garner acclaim and rack up awards. And then, in 2014, critic Jim Murray proclaimed a Sherry cask-finished single malt from Japan as the world’s best. After that, Japan’s whiskies were off to the races. Everybody wanted a bottle. There wasn’t enough to go around.
Comeback
Demand grew so quickly that stocks of many older Japanese whiskies were depleted. Age-statement whiskies became particularly hard to find.
While the single malts take the necessary time to age in the warehouse, the Big Two have responded by rolling out new bottlings without age declarations. “Taking away the age statement may be very shocking to some consumers, but the quality is still there. We get hung up on aging stateside.” —Timothy Koenig. Meanwhile, small producers have entered the American market, each hoping to find a cult audience.
The sidebar of recommended whiskies focuses on bottlings that should be relatively easy to obtain. For those who care about age-statement Japanese whiskies, take note: If you see one at a reasonable price, snap it up. It might be a while before you see it again.
How to Pour Japanese Whisky
While there’s nothing wrong with simply pouring out a dram, Japan’s bartenders have elevated whisky and cocktail presentation to an art. Here’s how to do it at home, as explained by Kazuo Uyeda, owner of Tokyo’s famed Tender Bar.
“Every action is natural and the result of focused concentration,” he says. “The bartender never shows off and, yet, nothing is accidental.” Chill a rocks glass just enough to fog it up. Place it in the freezer for about 10–15 minutes. Uyeda also advises holding the glass by the bottom to prevent warming it with your hand.
Present the bottle. Remove the bottle from the shelf and, if needed, wipe it off with a clean towel. Hold the bottom third of the bottle with your hand so that the label is visible. “By holding the bottle at the proper position, you are afforded a greater freedom of movement in your wrist, and your movements will look graceful,” says Uyeda. Remove the cap. Do it in one swift motion. And don’t put it down, which “halts the flow of motion and looks sloppy.”
Tilt your wrist to pour. Allow the whisky to pour into the glass in a thin, graceful stream. Then lift the bottle and replace the cap, which should still be in your hand.
