Hearty food like polenta, canederli (bread dumplings) and goulash is a hallmark of the Trentino-Alto Adige (aka Trentino-Südtirol) region that borders Austria. Yet, its many lakes and rivers make it a fishing paradise. The quick-cured fish here recalls local cured-meat specialties like speck and carne salada.
Ingredients
- 3 tablespoons lemon zest (from 3 washed lemons)
- 3 tablespoons kosher salt
- 3 tablespoons brown sugar
- 2 tablespoons minced fresh dill
- 8 ounces boneless filet of rainbow trout or arctic char
- 1 pound spaghettoni (thick spaghetti)
- 1 cup gin
- 8 tablespoons (1 stick) salted butter, room temperature
- 2 ounces trout or salmon roe
- ¼ cup radish sprouts or chopped chives
Directions
To cure the trout, mix one tablespoon lemon zest, salt, sugar and dill in a bowl. Lay a sheet of plastic wrap on the counter. Cover the trout on all sides with the salt mixture, then lay on the plastic and wrap tightly. Place on a deep plate or dish. Put something heavy on top (like a flat dish) and refrigerate for at least 12 and up to 24 hours. When ready to prepare the dish, rinse the fish to remove all the coating, pat dry, cut into small dice and set aside.
Cook spaghettoni according to package directions. While pasta cooks, add gin to a large and deep sauté pan over high heat and boil until gin reduces by half, then reduce heat to low and maintain at a simmer.
Drain pasta and add to gin, tossing for a minute so the pasta absorbs the gin. Remove pan from heat and add remaining lemon zest and butter. Toss until butter melts; doing this off the heat will result in a creamy, rather than greasy, sauce.
To assemble the dish, twirl the pasta into nests onto each of four plates. Divide the diced trout on top of each nest and garnish with the trout roe and sprouts or chives. Serves 4.
**Pickling liquid/pickled honeydew melon balls: In a pan, gently toast 2 tablespoons juniper berries, 2 tablespoons coriander seeds, 2 tablespoons mustard seeds, 2 tablespoons black peppercorns, and 6 star anise pods. Add 1250 grams of granulated white sugar, 4 tablespoons of Maldon salt, 500 grams of white balsamic vinegar, 500 grams of apple cider vinegar, 1250 grams of water, and the peels of 2 lemons and 2 oranges, and stir to combine while heating. Bring mixture to a low boil, then remove from heat and allow to cool completely. Transfer to a sealed container and refrigerate, allowing the mixture to infuse for two days. Strain through a chinois and then a coffee filter, discarding solids each time. Use a melon baller to fill a quart container with honeydew melon balls. Transfer to a ziplock bag and cover with the pickling liquid. Remove all air from the bag and cook sous vide for 2 hours at 52.5 degrees celsius. Refrigerate, keeping balls submerged in pickling liquid.
***Palo santo tincture: Combine 50 grams of food-grade palo santo wood with 250 grams of Everclear and allow to infuse for 2 weeks. Strain through a coffee filter and discard solids.
